Forza 5 Build & Tuning Guide
(454 ratings)
Nov 11, 2021 @ 11:12am10,930992
Modding or ConfigurationEnglish
Big thanks to HokiHoshi and others where I learned this information from!
Here are his videos of the subject where he goes more in depth but I just created this form as these are the notes/key points from his videos
Building Tips
Conversions
- Engine
- Keep stock engine, only upgrade engine if pushing to another class
- Drivetrain
- More viable to keep original drivetrain
- Aspiration
- If you can make power goal without turbo, do it
- Turbo’s give higher max power but only in higher rpm
- Supercharger give less max power but through entire rev range
- If you can make power goal without turbo, do it
Aero
- Front
- Try to build without front aero if you can but, if you get understeer use it
- Rear
- Whenever it drops points put it on as you can tune away the downforce
Tires & Rims
- Tire Compound
- Rally/Off Road/Drift
- Use the associated tires
- Road Racing
- AWD cars tire compound matters less
- RWD cars 1 or 2 tire compound upgrades is nice usually
- Slick tyres are rarely worth it unless rivals racing
- Semislick is preferred as you may have rain or offroad
- AWD cars tire compound matters less
- Front tire width
- Eliminated understeer
- Rear tire width
- Gives more grip to rear
- More worth it to upgrade than front
- Gives more grip to rear
- Rims
- Use these to adjust your PI (PI is the car ranking system - A-class is 800)
- Wheel Spacing
- Makes the car feel more stable on the side that is spaced
- Ok to have just the rear spaced as it'll feel more stable
- Used to adjust the oversteer/understeer balance
- Makes the car feel more stable on the side that is spaced
- Rally/Off Road/Drift
Drivetrain
- Clutch
- Doesn't matter much on manual w/ clutch
- Transmission
- Sports transmission is usually best option as you rarely need to adjust individual gears
- Driveline
- Used to adjust final PI points
- Differentials
- 0 PI
- Sport is worthless
- Use race for race
- Use rally for rally and any offroad that'll involve some onroad
- Go for off road for fully dedicated off road (Dune jumpers & Rock climbers)
- 0 PI
Suspension
- Brakes
- Nice to have it, it is worth it about 90% of the time
- Suspension
- Worth it to get race as it improves handling and unlocks tuning options
- ARB (Anti-roll bars)
- Extremely useful for fine point tuning
- Roll cages / Chassis reinforcement
- Full rollcage is usually heavy and not worth it
- Rule of thumb, for each class you upgrade your car over its original class, add one rollcage upgrade
- ie. if you take a B-class to A-class add 1 chassis reinforcement
- Full rollcage is usually heavy and not worth it
- Weight reduction
- Forza rewards min/max so go all in or not at all
- Power builds are usually favored on online racing
- “Adding power makes you faster on the straights, removing weight makes you faster everywhere”
- Forza rewards min/max so go all in or not at all
Engine
- Spend engine upgrades last
- Intake & exhaust first
- Oil & cooling
- Turbo & displacement upgrades for last
- Cams usually cost too much PI points
- Flywheel is a great PI adjuster
Final Upgrade Tips
- If you have made it to the end without max PI, go back and adjust little things like, Rims, tire width, Driveline, Flywheel
- Focus your builds on first unlocking tuning options then getting right tires, transmission, suspension setup
- If you have a lot of spare PI then go with brakes, clutch, adjustable aero
- Spend final PI on reducing weight or focus on adding power
Tuning Tips
General
- Locked tuning setups (Greyed out in tuning menu)
- Means you do not have the required options unlocked in the upgrade menu
- Look for the upgrades with the yellow unlock box
- Not all cars will have the ability to make every tuning adjustment
- Means you do not have the required options unlocked in the upgrade menu
Differential
- Acceleration
- Front
- Lower % preferred
- Go for 10-50%
- Low on track builds, high on rally builds
- Higher setting = understeer
- very important for FWD
- Lower % preferred
- Rear
- Higher % Preferred
- Go for between 50-90%
- Higher power cars prefer higher of that range
- Higher setting = more oversteer
- Higher % Preferred
- Front
- Decelerations
- Front/Rear
- Never set higher than acceleration setting
- Usually go for 0%
- Lower is more responsive but less stable
- Higher is more stable with entering corners
- Never set higher than acceleration setting
- Front/Rear
- Center
- Makes car feel more FWD or RWD
- Set between 50-80%
- Rally/Offroad is closer to 50%
- Track is closer to 80%
- 70% is great starting value for many cars
- Makes car feel more FWD or RWD
Brake
- Balance
- Brake balance is reverse
- Sliding to "front" gives more braking to the rear tires
- Brake balance is reverse
- Pressure
- Higher Values mean quicker locking/ABS engagement
- These settings have little effect so not a big deal to adjust
Aero
- Very unimportant on cars below B-class
- Front
- Eliminates understeer, makes car feel more responsive
- Rear
- More cornering grip
- Can make car less responsive by adding understeer
- More cornering grip
- Usually end up increasing downforce all around
- The faster you go, the bigger affect downforce will have, if you want more grip give more downforce
Damping
- Rebound Stiffness
- Stock is usually pretty good
- Bump Stiffness
- Usually comes too stiff
- Should be between 50-75% of rebound stiffness
- Race suspension defaults to 63%
- You typically want bump towards the low end only rasing this if you notice the car bouncing/unstable
- Usually comes too stiff
- General Rule
- If your rear end keeps sliding, increase front rebound and bump or reduce rear rebound and bump
Springs
- Springs
- Front
- Low front = oversteer
- Rear
- Low rear = Understeer
- General
- Used to adjust over/understeer
- Heavier/lower car should have stiffer springs
- Soft suspension is less responsive but more grippy
- Stiff suspension is more responsive but more likely to loose grip
- AWD/FWD
- More likely for understeer so lower front stiffness a bit
- Used to adjust over/understeer
- Ride Height
- General
- Lower is better
- Set as low as possible without bottoming out
- Lower is better
- General
- Front
ARB (Anti-roll bars)
- General
- Controls entry+mid corner balance
- Very noticeable on AWD+FWD
- RWD cars
- Aim for half way between soft and middle on front
- Aim for stiff and middle on rear
- Aim for half way between soft and middle on front
- Front
- Low front will result in oversteer
- Rear
- Low rear will have understeer
- Controls entry+mid corner balance
Allignment
- Camber
- When you are track racing camber is good
- Race suspension usually gives too much so bump it down a couple in front & rear
- Adjust via looking at the telemetry menu (more later on)
- When you are track racing camber is good
- Toe
- General
- Adjust sparingly
- Toe out = oversteer, response
- Toe in = understeer, stability
- Adjust sparingly
- FWD/AWD
- 0.1-0.2 front toe out to give a little oversteer
- RWD
- 0.1-0.2 rear toe in to keep rear stable in corner
- General
- Caster
- General
- Higher caster adds camber while in a turn while not affecting camber on a straight
- Keep between 4-7*
- Higher caster adds camber while in a turn while not affecting camber on a straight
- General
Gearing
- Final Gear
- If you added power you’ll want to extend and go towards speed so the last line goes just past the end of the graph
- Individual Gears
- High power RWD you may want to extend 1st & 2nd to make wheelspin less likely
Tires
- Tire Pressure
- General
- No tire wear so this setting just adjusts grip/heat
- Higher pressure feels more responsive and will loose grip quicker
- Lower pressure less response, slower loss of grip
- 26-35 psi for track
- Higher front psi is preferred (about 2-3 higher in the front)
- General
Fine Tuning Details
- General
- You need a place to test tune, the race track is a good pace
- Open Telemetry with T on pc
- On XBOX go to your setting and switch ANNA for telemetry then down on D-pad
- You need a place to test tune, the race track is a good pace
Telemetry Tuning
- Suspension
- Go to the suspension menu of the telemetry
- Fully pink is fully compressed/bottomed out, you don't want that
- (Car can bottom out without suspension bottoming out)
- During stress the pink bar should be between 20-80%
- If it is not moving much
- Soften the suspension
- If it is moving too much
- Stiffen the suspension
- Go to the suspension menu of the telemetry
- Camber
- Go to the TIRES, MISC. menu
- Watch the camber of outside tires
- Never want to the go positive
- Want a minimum of around -1 to -0.5
- Go to the TIRES, MISC. menu
- Go to the Heat menu
- Go to the Heat menu
- Inside of the tire should be the hottest right around the clear to yellow color
- The difference between the inside and outside of the tire should never be more than about 20*F preferred within 10-15*F
- If more than 20*F then lower the camber
- If outside is hotter than inside, add camber
- If outside and inside is hotter than middle add tire pressure
- If middle is hottest part of tire lower tire pressure
- If more than 20*F then lower the camber
Troubleshooting
Oversteer/Understeer
- Corner entry
- Understeer (A little bit of corner entry understeer is normal)
- Adjust tire pressure
- Lower front springs / ARBs
- Raise toe out
- Raise Front downforce
- Lower differential deceleration lock
- Raise front bump
- Lower front rebound
- If during braking specifically
- Move more brake bias towards the rear of the car
- (Move the slider towards front)
- Move more brake bias towards the rear of the car
- Adjust tire pressure
- Oversteer
- Raise front springs / ARBs
- Raise toe in
- Raise differential deceleration lock
- Raise front springs / ARBs
- Understeer (A little bit of corner entry understeer is normal)
- Mid Corner
- Understeer (Car will turn in well then straighten back out)
- Raise rear ARBs & Spring rate
- Raise front downforce
- Raise rear rebound & bump
- Adjust tire pressure, camber, caster
- Raise rear ARBs & Spring rate
- Oversteer
- Raise front ARBs / spring rate
- Raise front rebound
- Adjust tire pressure / rear camber
- Raise front ARBs / spring rate
- Understeer (Car will turn in well then straighten back out)
- Corner Exit
- Understeer
- Raise center differential rear bias
- Raise rear acceleration lock
- Lower front acceleration lock
- Raise center differential rear bias
- Oversteer
- Raise center differential front bias
- Raise front acceleration lock
- Lower rear acceleration lock
- Raise center differential front bias
- RWD Grip
- Adjust downforce
- Bump stiffness
- Alignment
- Throttle management
- Adjust downforce
- Understeer
Other
- Responsiveness during transitions
- Due to damping and anti roll bars
- Car gets thrown off via bumps / curbs
- Lower bump stiffness
- Tire temps arn't getting hot enough
- Increase downforce
- Add toe
- Increase downforce
- Cold tires and understeer
- Toe out all around
- Cold tires and oversteer
- Toe in all around
- Too bouncy and shifting weight
- Increase bump damping and spring stiffness
- Bad braking
- Lessen front camber
- Increase caster
- Move brake balance towards front wheels
- Stiffening suspension to the front
- Lessen front camber
- Low top speed
- Adjust Aero
- Adjust final gear
- Adjust Aero
RWD Drag Builds
- Tire Pressure
- Front & Rear
- All the way low
- Front & Rear
- Gearing
- Adjust to make sure you grip up in 1st/2nd depending what you choose to launch in
- Also try to reduce the amount of gear changes for shorter drag race builds
- Adjust to make sure you grip up in 1st/2nd depending what you choose to launch in
- Alignment
- Camber
- 0.0* Front & Back
- 0.0* Front & Back
- Front Caster
- All the way high
- Camber
- ARBs
- Front & Rear
- All the way stiff
- Front & Rear
- Springs
- Front
- All the way soft
- Rear
- 75% stiff
- Ride Height
- All the way high on Front & Rear (Use rally suspension)
- Front
- Damping
- Rebound Stiffness
- Front
- All the way soft
- Rear
- All the way stiff
- Front
- Bump Stiffness
- Front
- All the way soft
- Rear
- All the way stiff
- Front
- Rebound Stiffness
- Aero
- Full Speed Front & Rear
- Brakes
- Doesn't matter (if you're using brakes in a drag race you're doing it wrong)
- Differential
- Acceleration
- 100%
- Deceleration
- 50%
- Acceleration
Wheelie Builds
Take the drag setup and make the following changes
- Tire Pressure
- Front
- Max PSI
- Front
- Gearing
- Have the first gear line end right before the 3rd vertical gear line as the image shows
https://steamuserimages-a.akamaihd.net/ugc/1805375509367599289/7359A5EBE87379E1CE480D1B2A168C4C166EECA5/?imw=256&&ima=fit&impolicy=Letterbox&imcolor=%23000000&letterbox=false - (You may need to extend or shorten depending on your vehicles power but you want to minimize wheelspin)
- Have the first gear line end right before the 3rd vertical gear line as the image shows
- Alignment
- Camber
- Front
- Max Positive
- Front
- Camber
- Springs
- Springs
- Rear
- All the way stiff
- Rear
- Springs